Showing posts with label Camera Hacking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Camera Hacking. Show all posts

Monday, March 03, 2014

This is What the Limited Lenses Should be Put Onto 2!



http://forum.xitek.com/thread-1275234-2-1-1.html
(in Simplified Chinese)


Last Related:

This is What the Limited Lenses Should be Put Onto!

Adapt "All" Lenses onto a Pentax K-mount DSLR



http://www.pentaxforums.com/news/pentax-k-multi-mount-pkmm-giveaway.html

I think this camera hack is wonderful if it really works! :-o However, the most unfortunate thing is that there is no Full Frame body of any in K-mount, implying all adapted lenses will be cropped, defeating all their original designed purposes.

Saturday, October 19, 2013

The Pentax L43 Special (L39-mount) Put onto the A7



Via: http://www.mirrorlessrumors.com/the-rumor-counterattack-from-fuji-full-frame-x200-coming-in-2014/

Wow!


Related: 

This is What the Limited Lenses Should be Put Onto!

Sunday, September 15, 2013

AF Fine Adjustment: "Apply All" and "Apply One" Fully Explained



Quite some time ago, I explained how to focus adjust a K-5 camera using Live View. However, there are some confusions amongst Pentax users over time for the meanings and effects of the "Apply All" and "Apply One" settings. So, I opt to explain more this time. Well, the user manual tells nothing useful about these once again, just see page 126 of the K-5 user manual! >:-(

For a camera like the K-5 and K-30/50/500 which lacks a f/2.8 sensors, this "AF Fine Adjustment" is crucial so as to compensate the spherical aberration that exists on all lenses when stopped down against wide opened, which causes the camera to mis-focus depending on the amount of differences. It is because the AF system actually measures the more central part of the lenses optically for those f/5.6 AF sensors.

So, here we go, we have four scenarios:

1. Nothing is Set:



This is essentially the same as to set in the Custom Function that the "AF Fine Adjustment" is Turned Off / Disabled.

2. "Apply All" is Set but "Apply One" Not:



So, All lenses will use the "+5" setting as shown in the above example which is obvious. Do note that a +ve setting is meant to instruct the camera to focus fronter (to compensate back focusing) and vice versa for a "-ve" value to instruct the camera to focus backwards (to compensate front focusing).

3."Apply All" is Not Set and "Apply One" is Set (for Individual Lenses):



This is also obvious, the "Apply One" setting will take effect when individual lens is mounted of which the lens identity number is detected (for a Pentax F AF lens or later). So, I now know why the official user manual just tells you "Apply All" means apply all, "Apply One" means apply one or something like that but no more! ;-p

Choose this only if your camera does not contain any AF error primitively by itself, like my own K-5 unit which is a perfect copy already! :-D

4. Both "Apply All" and "Apply One" are Set:



Well, what does it mean under this case? Is it actually +2, +5 or +7?? What do you think? :-o For what I checked, it is actually +2, that means that the "Apply One" setting overrides the "Apply All". Whilst this does make sense somehow but however, the "Apply One" is not applied on top of the "Apply All" as many Pentax users wished!

Btw, if you have a copy of your Pentax camera which needs some slight adjustment by itself for *all* lenses, i.e. sample variations with some system errors, set both and remember to individually calibrate all your lenses unless the "Apply All" already works for all your lenses, i.e. scenario #2! Frankly, if you have more prime lenses like me, calibrating each lens is inevitably unavoidable!

Last but not least, some people would be puzzled for what to do with a cheap DAL or even "DA" lenses which does not have a focusing mark (namely, the DA35/2.4, DA50/1.8 and the DA40/2.8XS lens). Well, what you need to do is to put on a sticker and make the mark yourself before doing any further calibration! See the following example. :-)



Besides, some people would still wonder, do the K-5II/s need such "AF Fine Adjustment"? My answer is Yes, if you are using really Fast Prime like the DA*55/1.4 or just an old FA50/1.4 and etc., of which spherical aberration still occurs in between the widest aperture of f/1.4 down right to the f/2.8 aperture where the AF is detected and measured. So, the above techniques do still always apply! And also don't forget that not every copy of the K-5II/s is perfectly quality controlled when it was produced from the Pentax' (and now Ricoh's) factory.

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Metz 58AF-1 Hotshoe Upgrade (Old to New Version, from Plastic to Metal, plus New PCB)

Read this:-

http://www.pentaxfans.net/thread-138657-1-1.html
(in Traditional Chinese, but posted pictures are self-explanatory.)



So, the hotshoe base material has been changed, from plastic to metal. The PCB inside/underneath has been updated too. It can be seen that the whole circuit board design has completely been revamped.

Speaking of those Metz flashguns for Pentax, last time they released an update of the firmwares for their newer models that enabled the HSS on the newer Pentax bodies but there existed a major bug that caused the A and M modes disabled. They soon released an updated version of 4.1 which contained the bug fix very shortly. For instance, the following link is the firmware download page for the 58 AF-2 flash:

http://www.metz.de/en/flash-units/firmware-download-flash-units/mecablitz-58-af-2-digital/pentax.html

After the above was released, I have checked on the web for the feedbacks from some Pentax users that the firmware update does work for them and there is no other major bug and issue found and reported so far.

Saturday, June 01, 2013

Copy 120 Films Using an ILDC/DSLR with a Macro Lens

First inspired by Petapixel, this is what I have tried and done myself:-

1. These are the tools that I've used: A white fluorescent desklamp at 6000K, two 77mm UV multi-coated filters, a lens hood with outer diameter in 77mm, some "white" milky transparent paper:-



2. Turn on the lamp, mine is a Panasonic with invertor circuitry which enables the lamp operated at a high frequency:-



3. Put on the "diffuser", I have made three folds of the same plastic sheet:-



* Do the custom white balance at this point with your camera. Mine was measured to be at 4600K exactly, after adding the diffuser, which is yet somehow yellowish.

4. The 120 film is then put inside the two filters, which are in the same size of 77mm. The film fits just well with that filter size. The two filters are screwed tight and the film is sandwished inside (although it is not completely flat, though, but the final DoF should be enough to cover this unevenness):-





5. Align at the position and then put on the lens hood with proper length, so as to match the magnification of the whole film frame to fit in the digital image frame and size of the camera:-





6. Find a wide angle macro lens. I am using the Sony E30/3.5 Macro on a NEX. Experiment with the subject to camera distance. I found and added another lens hood so as to make it just right for the image magnification:-



7. Take the photo with steady hands. It is preferable that everything can be screwed together although my above setup doesn't. Adhesive tape may help but I did the following unfixed. Here is the raw result:-


(Above: Pentax 645N with FA645 45mm/2.8, Fuji Provia 100F. For original picture with full EXIF, click and download here. Warning: Large File!)

8. Crop the photo and here is a clean and "complete" scan of the film:-


(For original picture with full EXIF, click and download here. Warning: Large File!)

9. If you want to compare the result for a scan from a lab machine, here is what I got from the lab which scanned my film after the film development:-


(For original photo with full EXIF, click and download here. Warning: Very Large File!)

10. The above lab scan is in 17MPs originally and mine is less than 14MPs for what my NEX could deliver (as after cropping it is less). You may note some vignetting is introduced in my "scan" as my NEX is an old model which could not correct lens vignetting in-camera. But the advantage of scanning the film by oneself is that more things can be adjusted/controlled including the White Balance, Contrast and Colour Profile and etc., which is important IMO. Also, to get the best results, a higher pixel count camera with better image quality should be used and do shoot in RAW mode, which will give you the flexibility of further post-processing for higher image quality and better results.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Modding a K Body into a R Mount One





Watch this Video for how to do it:-

http://you.video.sina.com.cn/b/102350636-2028510075.html

Via: Sina Weibo (all in Chinese, aka "micro blog").

Wow, what a workmanship! :-o  Now, all the Leica lenses of that user can be mounted directly without any adaptor needed.
 
Nonetheless, I think the use of a Leica-R to Pentax-K adaptor (widely available) is still preferable, which is simple, not destructive and most importantly, K-mount lenses can still be mounted and used, unless that user decided not to use any K-mount lenses on his Pentax DSLR anymore! :-(

Tuesday, May 07, 2013

I've Cropped My Pentax 645 Lenses Myself, in 1.6X! :-o

Since an original 645 lens when put onto an 135 FF body is cropped only 1.6X, I have decided to do this! :-o :-)



I suppose the degrade in IQ (in particular, the resolving power of the 645 lenses) would not be too much as this is exactly what Pentax has been doing/forcing us to do exactly the same thing with more or less the same crop ratio for all those K-mount film lenses of us when they are put onto *any* Pentax K-mount DSLR that was ever produced up till now! >:-[

Btw, the 645D is cropped in 1.3X on the original 120 FF format. So, this 0.3X difference could actually cost a lot, which I am not going to pay for that difference for that much anyway!

Consider also that the pixel pitch sizes of my 5D3 and the 645D are close enough, I suppose my FA645 lenses should be good enough to out-resolve the sensor at pixel level. :-)

Of course, for the overall resolution of the whole picture frame, the 645D still wins, i.e., 40MP over 22/24MP of the current 135 FF digital bodies which have the similar pixel sizes. Actually, this is what the line pairs per picture height or width (LP/PH or LP/PW) figure is going to tell.

Sample photos would follow.. The IQ of those old FA645 lenses on 5D3 is really impressive!


Related:-

What is/are the Meaning(s) of a Cropped Digital System Now?

Comparison of Sensor Specs - 645D Against Others

This is What the Limited Lenses Should be Put Onto!

DIY: Adapting the Pentax FA*85/1.4 onto the Cantax K-5D Mark III

Monday, May 06, 2013

A Metabones Speed Booster Clone, in K-mount



Pentaxians might complain about why Metabones didn't make their "Speed Booster" in K-mount? I think it is just a market(ing) decision after all.

Still, if you want to get something similar to use, i.e., to put your old Pentax FF lenses onto the current APS-C cropped body, here is an alternative solution:-

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/first-pictures-of-the-cheap-chinese-speed-booster-alternative-to-ship-from-may-already/

But I really doubt about the resulting IQ anyway. Still, I don't think it is wise enough to do so, especially consider about the huge cost of the original Speed Booster.

Speaking of those Chinese made adaptors, actually one can find almost anything nowadays, for whatever one would want (to convert)! For example, here is yet an EOS lens to NEX body adaptor, which even supports full AF and AE (auto aperture) functions, and the EOS lenses could now fully work on the NEX bodies just like what they can on the EOS M body, with the need of an adaptor also!

http://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=18431707112&ali_refid=a3_420434_1006:1103341686:6::1956d6a4d06e6ea3dc9c71d2c005f1fe&ali_trackid=1_1956d6a4d06e6ea3dc9c71d2c005f1fe
(in Chinese)

It is warned that the AF will be slower, though. But this is also the result with the original EOS lenses when they are put onto the EOS M body via an adaptor, which is yet original! >:-(


Related:-

K-5D Mark III: DA 18-55 II Converted to a 24-80 FULL FRAME Lens!

Completely Disassembled and then Reassembled the DA40XS Lens

This 40XS lens user had his lens dropped from 15cm onto the table. The instant results were an optical element shifted and all the aperture blades came off! Wow, how durable this lens actually is! >:-( Is this the result of over-minimization of this lens? :-o



http://www.dchome.net/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=1197120
(in Traditional Chinese)

So, he dis-assembled the whole lens down to the chamber that holds the aperture blades and re-assembled all of parts for the whole lens. He succeeded to repair the lens finally! Good job, guy, you are really brave enough and brilliant! :-)



But yet somehow unfortunately, since the user did not have the required tool to screw in back the front lens cover plate, he was forced to drill two holes onto the plate so that he could grip it firmly for screwing with his forceps. He refilled the gaps at last, so as to prevent dust and dirt coming inside the lens again.



Nonetheless, the lens was reported to be very vulnerable to dust particles for getting inside, which is also yet another problem of this lens model.


Related:-

DA40/2.8 Limited Disassembly

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Ricoh GR Size Compared to Other Cameras



Source: Flickr

Or, just compare it freely at the camerasize.com, for instance:-

Ricoh GR Vs Pentax K-01



So, we can see the big difference between the GR and the K-01, despite that both are having the same Sony sensor, in the same size of course! :-o

In fact, the K-01 is designed to be almost "gripless". So, clever Pentaxians are always much adaptive and like to DIY to tackle those original Pentax problems. See this:-

http://www.pentaxfans.net/thread-136325-1-1.html
(in Chinese)



Is it much better (to hold) now? Good job, man!

Friday, April 12, 2013

Disassemble a DSLR and Inspecting a Mirror-Locked MZ Body



URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvFMFb9JylQ (EOS 50D)



URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3cCTv7JbrY (EOS 1000D)

The procedures are shown clearly and it is carried out in a professional manner.

Besides, there is a guide for how to check and try to repair a Pentax MZ film body that had its mirror locked up in the following thread:-

http://forum.xitek.com/forum-redirect-goto-findpost-ptid-1125971-pid-46046531.html
(in Chinese) 



The mirror locked up issue is actually a common issue amongst those MZ bodies, which would show up after some years of use, including mine. I shall try to open the bottom of my locked MZ to check and do it myself later, when I have the time. These cameras are not supported by my local Pentax service centre anyway, I bet. Their usual excuse was that "the body was discontinued for more than ten years ago and the required spare part is not available anymore."! >:-(

Saturday, April 06, 2013

This is What the Limited Lenses Should be Put Onto!



That is, a 135 Full Frame Body!!

Btw, my FA43LE has better Image Quality than my Canon 40mm STM pancake which is yet better than my DA40XS lens on Full Frame (of which the image corner performance is just so poor). So, this adoption is just "unavoidable"! ;-D


Related:- 

DIY: Adapting the Pentax FA*85/1.4 onto the Cantax K-5D Mark III

DA40XS Vs EF40STM on 5D3 (Full Frame Shootout Test)

Monday, April 01, 2013

Adapting Pentax K-mount Lenses to Nikon F-mount Bodies is Painful



http://www.dchome.net/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=1189091
(FA35/2 adapted on D600, in Chinese)

The user has to replace the whole K-mount so as to fit in the lens, for the correct back focus register distance! The modification is mostly destructive btw. >:-(

Sunday, March 31, 2013

DIY: Adapting the Pentax FA*85/1.4 onto the Cantax K-5D Mark III



Since a Pentax K-mount FF has been rather pessimistic for long and even that the K-mount might be aborted, today I have decided to build my own K-mount Full Frame body myself again, to accommodate my superior and excellent FA*85/1.4 lens, which has been collecting dust for long without a matching FF body!

So, here we go!

Warning: If you follow me to do the following, do it at YOUR OWN RISK!

And, great care must always be taken throughout the whole course:-

1. Put a large white paper on the working desk/table with bright illumination on it;

2. Find a high quality matching-size screwdriver for opening the rear of the lens;

3. Remove the three screws *around* the mount so as to pick out the whole assembly of the aperture coupler protector, as follows:-



4. Remove the five screws *on* the mount for dismantling the mount. Before doing that, do put on adhesive tape onto the gold plated electrical pins and contacts to prevent them from dropping off when the mount is removed:-



5. Pick out the aperture ring coupling ring inside:-



6. Unscrew the aperture coupler and remove it:-



7. Put back the aperture coupling ring and the mount:-



8. Get a quality Pentax-K to Canon-EOS adaptor and put it onto the K-mount lens. Mine is a Kipon adaptor with a programmable chipset and PCB attached:-



9. Keep and store the removed parts safely and properly:-



10. Focus adjust the lens before use, the correction parameter can be either entered into the body or into the memory of the programmable chip of the adaptor, which I choose the latter. This calibration method of mine is used.

Last but not least, other K-mount lenses could also be mounted!




Related:-

Compatibility List of Some Pentax Full Frame Lenses on Canon 5D Body

Compatibility of DA Lenses on Full Frame

K-5D Mark III: DA 18-55 II Converted to a 24-80 FULL FRAME Lens!

When the Focusing Screen Lies - Part 2

Related Posts

 
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