K-3 New Firmware 1.10 Diffraction Reduction Before Vs After Test

http://www.nphoto.net/news/2014-07/17/1eacb1337aaccb89.shtml
(in Simplified Chinese)

The test picture crops are with f-stops marked. Left side ones are with new firmware, with diffraction reduction enabled. Right side ones are with the last firmware of version 1.03.

It seems that at very large apertures, image sharpness is affected somehow. But reversely, at mid to small apertures, sharpness does have been improved. Anyway, I blog, you measurbate and then decide! ;-)

Nonetheless, if you are a K-3 user and would like to update and try, the official firmware download link is as follows:

http://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/digital/k3_s.html

K-3 + HD DA15 and 35 Full Samples

http://www.yaotomi.co.jp/blog/walk/2013/11/pentax-k-3-review-vol1.html
(in Japanese)

I am not impressed with neither the colour rendition nor the image resolution btw.

Visualising the Change of Ownership in the History of Pentax from the Product Labels

In reversing time order..

4. 2012: Pentax Ricoh Imaging Company:-

A Ricoh K-5:-



Source: A DPR Forum Post

3.5. 2011-12: Transitional Period from Hoya to PRIC:-



Label and documentation are showing Hoya but there is a notice of change of ownership included in the box.

Source: Changing the Focusing Screen of K-5 - Tips and Techniques

3. 2007-2011: Hoya Corporation:-

A Hoya K-5's bottom:-



K-5 is a Pentax DSLR model which carries both a Hoya and a Ricoh label for the units manufactured before and after.. Btw, mine is a Hoya unit.

Source: Imaging Resource

And my Optio WG-1 GPS purchased last summer:-



Source: My Take (Tick) on the WG-1 GPS! ;-)

2. 2001-2006: Pentax Corporation:-

My K100D:-



Source: Where are the Pentax DSLRs and Lenses Made?

1. 2001 and before: Asahi Optical Company:-

The bottom labels of my MZ-S and Optio 330:-



Source: Where are the Pentax DSLRs and Lenses Made?

Pentax SLR Cameras 1952-2011

(Updated: Click Above to Download a Larger Poster!)

Source: Pentax Germany @ Google Plus

Via: Chassimages Pentax Forum

Btw, does it have a larger version? :-(


Read Also:-

A (Pentax) Camera Catalogue Collector

Pentax SLR Cameras 1952-2008

Major Canon Cameras 1930 to 2010

New Lithium Rechargable Battery Type in AA Format - LiFePO4

Thanks to Blog reader Hayami, I've got known to this "new" battery type and product.

This new rechargeable Lithium technology is different from the conventional Lithium-ion or polymer ones, the native voltage is at about 3.45V and with a nominal rated voltage at 3.2V after some use. This voltage is actually very close to the added up voltage of two fresh disposable AA alkaline or lithium batteries. It is called the Lithium Iron Phosphate, or LiFePO4 in chemical term:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate


(Source: Chinese ZOL Forum)

As we can see from the above Wiki article, LiFePO4 does have many advantages over the other conventional Lithium rechargeable technologies. Yet, it shares the advantages of other lithium rechargeables such as no memory effect and a very low self-discharge rate.

Unlike the conventional Lithium rechargeables, no external voltage regulation is required to match the "1.5V" (x2) voltage requirement, which makes now it is possible to make AA sized battery in which including such a voltage regulation circuitry is almost impractical.

As for the internal resistance of the LiFePO4, it is less than 100 mOhm as specified, which is close to the rated 90 to 150 mOhm of the Energizer disposable AA Lithium L91. But however, since we use four ("1.5V") L91 in our Pentax AA DSLRs whilst only two are needed for the LiFePO4 (with two other dummy battery conductors to be inserted in series and used in conjunction), the total battery internal resistance is halved in comparison, as a result. This is considered still much relatively safer to use the NiZn rechargeable AA as its internal resistance is only at about 5 mOhm per battery unit only, which is considered just too low and too dangerous, as it might cause damage to device depending on the design of its circuitry.

And, here is an article which shows the inside of a charger product that is widely available at Taobao (aka the Chinese e-Bay). It seems that the charger is well made with good materials used and workmanship. The charger is manufactured by a Hong Kong vendor with factory in the mainland China btw.



The LiFePO4 charger is also available in USB format, by a different Chinese manufacturer, though:-


(Source: http://www.qqid.com/jk/shop_view.asp?id=158)

Nevertheless, one of the least drawbacks of the current LiFePO4 AA in the market is about its lower rated capacity in mAh, which is at 600 only. But with its superior voltage regulation throughout its whole discharge curve, it has been widely reported that the battery performance and life is still superior than all those NiMH rechargeables which are rated at 2,000mAH+ something, for most cases. Below is one set of the tested discharge characteristics for two different samples as posted:-


(Credit: http://www.920pk.com/shangpin_7291871215.htm)

After all, my set of 4 LiFePO4 AA batteries (with 4 dummy AA conductors) will arrive very soon. I will test it more thoroughly this week and shall write an user report/review of mine later on. But as you can see in all the above Chinese web-links, most of the user comments are very favourable and positive, with various different kinds of devices used, including DSLRs, DCs, torches and RC toys. Besides using that in my K-x, I am eager to try that in my Tayami QuickDrive (QD) toy racing car and see how faster my car could get with the increased power but yet far less weight that put inside for the batteries! :-D


Related:-

K-x Battery Issue Re-visited (with the Latest Firmware)

Better K-x Rechargable Solution? Is the NiZn Safe?

AA Battery Chargers Fully Compared (4 Models)

Overclocking Your Pentax (AA Battery) DSLR(s)!?

Six Years of AA Battery Pentax DSLRs

When 1100mAh Li-ion RCR-V3s Outperform 2500mAh+ NiMH AAs ..

Cable Control Your (Pentax) DSLRs Using iPhone

(Credit: DC Fever)

Using the ioShutter.

Now, if your Pentax DSLR has a cable release socket, then you can use your iPhone to fire the shutter remotely but wired, and with even more software control capabilities including interval shooting, programmable bulb and sound/movement trigger etc. A nice and welcome Pentax alternative of course. And with many people are having iPhones nowadays, it could come in handy, provided that the user also brings along with the proprietary interfacing release cable that is to be purchased from the ioShutter altogether with the App.


Related:-

Remote Control Your Camera Using Android Device

The Pentax (Electronic) Cable Switches

Microsoft Camera Codec Pack for Windows 7 and Vista

Is now available for download and supports the RAW files (PEF only) of various Pentax DSLRs from *ist D to K-x (and for many cameras of other brands as well):-

http://www.microsoft.com/download/en/details.aspx?id=26829

Go get it for the update if you are using Win7 or Vista (SP2 only) and you just want to have a quick preview of your RAW pictures at the Windows Explorer. Enjoy!

Btw, the latest Pentax K-5 and K-r are not officially supported, though. And neither the 645D is mentioned.

On the other hand, Pentax has their own RAW codec that supports K-5, K-r and 645D, but than all the 64-bit Windwows are not supported:-

http://www.pentax.jp/english/support/digital/rawcodec_win.html

Pentax K Series Ranks Below Average in a Recent DSLR User Satisfaction Survey by J.D. Power

"A study conducted by market research firm J.D. Power and Associates has found that “Nikon Pro Series” DSLRs rank highest in customer satisfaction. The company surveyed 4,500 verified online DSLR buyers to find out their satisfaction across five factors: image quality, durability, features, ease of use, and responsiveness."

From: http://www.petapixel.com/2011/07/19/nikon-ranks-highest-in-online-customer-satisfaction-among-dslr-buyers/

Via: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1036&thread=38944858


Actually, Pentax K ranks No. 5 amongst 7 with a "just-failed" mark of 883 below the passing mark of 887. Nevertheless, the K is still ahead of the Canon Rebel as well as the Sony A, which is ranked last.

Excellent AA Battery Review by Type

Written by the Photo Rumors:-

http://photorumors.com/2011/06/04/what-are-the-best-aa-batteries-for-photography/

I think this detailed review is really a good read.


Related:-

AA Battery Chargers Fully Compared (4 Models)

How to Resolve the K-x Battery Problem?

Better K-x Rechargable Solution? Is the NiZn Safe?

Pentax Picture Samples (Full Sized, Japanese Link)

The samples are grouped by particular Pentax DSLR or lens models.. To view the full size samples, several clicks are required:-

http://photoxp.daifukuya.com/tag/pentax

EXIF data are usually preserved.

Enjoy! :-)

Hardware Adjust a Pentax DSLR for the AF

http://www.cnpentax.com/thread-24-1-1.html
(in Chinese, Google-translated English Page Here)

Two major steps to correct the AF errors caused by the mis-alignment of the AF module:

1. Dismantle the bottom cover of the body:-



2. Locate the screw "C" and do the adjust!



Turn anti-clockwise to correct front focusing and vice versa. The OP of the thread writes that he made a turn of about 60 degrees to correct the back focusing of his body. (Remarks: The "A" and "B" screws are for the levelling of the AF detection module, as told.)

Task Completed!

Its just so easy! Whilst the QC and alignments of the Pentax DSLRs could often suck (plus those so-so or even could be non-existent after-sales service and support), those Pentax DSLRs are so "user"-serviceable! Nice~! ;-D

To get the best out of your Pentax DSLRs (especially those old ones which have been out of the warranty for long), its time to self-serve yourself and start DIY! But do remember, do anything at your own risk! Please bear this in mind, folks! :-)

N.B. For formal servicing information, do download and read the full instructions and illustrations from some of those Pentax DSLR service manuals, here.

Update: A K10D user reports that he succeeded in focus adjusted his K10D with the above method.


Related:-

Live View & AF Methods Fully Dissected

DIY Reminder: Pentax Service Manuals @ the Pentax-Hack(.Info)

DIY Reminder: Pentax Service Manuals @ the Pentax-Hack(.Info)

For those who just wants to give it a try on your old cameras and models! :-)

http://www.pentax-hack.info/documents/downloads.html
(Click to Download)

K10D Full Service Manual:-
http://www.pentax-hack.info/firmware/k10_gx10/k10d_sm.zip
(Click to Download)

Service Manuals of *ist D, DS, DL, DL2, K100D and K100D Super (and a Brief Supplement for the K110D):-

http://www.pentax-hack.info/firmware/k10_gx10/older_sm.zip

Happy camera repairing/modding/hacking or whatsoever, no matter what! ;-D

Anyway, unfortunately, the Pentax-Hack does not update any new (hacking) information for newer Pentax DSLR models anymore, neither on the hardware disassembly/repair/adjustment/calibration nor about software/firmware hacks and tricks! Too bad.. :-( Maybe the source of theirs was fired already? :-o

Warning and Disclaimer: Do anything at your own risk and bear all the responsibilities and consequences by yourself!!

The Pentax (Electronic) Cable Switches

Above: All Cable Releases of Mine; From Left to Right: Pentax Cable Switch F, Pentax CS-105, Canon RS-60E3, Canon RS-80N3; Top: Traditional Universal Mechanical Flexible Cable Release.

Cable Switch	For Camera(s)	Period
Cable Switch F	SF Series, (P)Z Series, MZ Series (Except MZ-S)	1987 - 2002
CS-105	MZ-S	2001
CS-205 (Canon RS-60E3 Clone)	*ist, *ist D Series, K(number)D Series, K-number Series	2003 - Now
No Support	K-alphabet Series, i.e., K-m, K-x & K-r	2009 - Now

The CS-105 is actually the most professionally designed and built cable switch that Pentax has ever made. But unfortunately, it supports/supported only the MZ-S. It has the same design as the Canon upper Remote Switch RS models for their upper class AFSLRs/DSLRs only. The design has an automatic mechanical lock so that the cable switch cannot be detached accidentally. To detach, one must hold and press the silver portion of the connector which will release the lock as you can see from the above photo, for both the CS-105 and RS-80N3. It has one disadvantage IMO, though. That is, the insertion of the connector is directional, which is really no good for inserting the cable in the dark, but which is usually the situation in which the user usually requires to use the cable switch/release!

I didn't buy the CS-205, though, when I acquired my *ist D. I was indeed somehow "angry" with Pentax for changing the cable switch after only one model. As the CS-205 is just a Canon low-end "RS" clone but which was sold at doubled price and was more difficult to find than the Canon (as usual, for all Pentax items!), I opted to buy the Canon. Anyway, even the Canon is of no use to me anyway for more than one year now, as my current and last Pentax DSLRs, namely, the K-x and K-m, just does not support any cable switch/release for each of them (and so does the upcoming K-r)!

Update (9-28): Some people doubt about the usefulness of a wired cable switch and release. I would like to elaborate a bit more about its true value for some applications and the differences underlaid..

1. A cable release actually consists of two switches, one for the half-pressing and the other for shutter release. An IR release controls only one switching, i.e., the release of shutter. Some IR remote controllers of Pentax like those that I built-in with my Zoom 90 WR and purchased together with my Optio 330 have the zoom control, but then so what?

2. The control of the half-press is crucial if you want also to control AE and in most cases, the AF, just like what we are using the cameras daily. Just imagine that when you use a DSLR without half-press function, then.. I think I needless to say more! For some shooting applications like shooting concerts on monopod/tripod or to track racing cars and panning where direct pressing of shutter button is not desirable so as to avoid shakes right before the exposure, a cable release is particular useful - but still we need to do and control the AE and AF, right?

3. An IR controller needs to point directly to the IR receiver and sensor at the body (which is located in the front for Pentax DSLR bodies) as long as it is pressed for the "Bulb" control. With the K-x, the user can choose in the Custom Function that for a "two-press" operation, i.e., to press one to open the shutter and press another time to close it. No matter how, this is not as convenient, reliable, direct and responsive as what a simple wired cable release can do for the user. One of the good examples of application is shooting fireworks, where timing is really critical if you are really using the shutter to control the (multiple) exposures instead of using a black card in front of the camera with a long bulb mode. An old example of mine:-


(Canon EOS 5D: f/16, 5s, ISO 100, 24-105L @24mm, RAW post-processed with DPP, Cable Release Used; Photo taken in Feb. 2008 @ Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong - Click to Enlarge in New Tab/Window)

P.S. I might upload some more fireworks plus some concert or racing car photos later on, as most of my old shared photos were already deleted at my old Yahoo Geocities account which I cancelled but they are not re-uploaded.

Major Causes of Poor AF Reliability of Pentax DSLRs

Here is yet a recent complaint from a Pentaxian who has bought three different Pentax DSLR models and bodies in four years but is still being pissed off by the poor AF reliability, inconsistency and inaccuracy of the AF of all his Pentax bodies with various different original Pentax AF lenses used in conjunction:-

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1036&thread=35758153

Sample photos for the focusing errors are posted for times along the thread, which are shown up as solid evidence. And, there are some other posters replied do second his view and the same disappointment is expressed.

In fact, what causes the problem? Why? Below are a number of major causes that I can think of, namely:-

1. Inadequate Design(s) of the SAFOX VIII/+ AF System:-

1.1 Large AF Sensing Areas:

First of all, the sensing area of the AF line sensors are just too large! In fact, it is just so large for the area of coverage that the user by no means could pinpoint the focus more precisely:



As you can see, the red lines indicate the actual location of the AF line sensors. The central AF bracket mark provides only a rather rough indication for where the AF actually measures. But still, the big problem is, the line is just too long and the user can never select and pinpoint the targeted focusing point more precisely. Under some more critical situations, e.g., when using fast prime at closer distances, this is just a real issue that never has remedials. The user is just helpless.

1.2 Decreased AF Sensor Resolution (Possibly):

Secondly, the magnified AF line sensors yet cause another no-so-obvious issue. That is, with the same AF line sensor and module which has a fixed number of pixels used (i.e., the pixel density), the larger the AF area that it is magnified, the lower the effective resolution and thus the accuracy of the AF sensor and measurement will be, for the image that is projected through the split-prisms of the AF module on that specific AF sensor. Of course, one can argue that Pentax might have put a very long AF line sensor with yet effectively high enough pixel density even the AF line coverage is large. But then this is very unlikely as it would increase much the cost of the AF components and thus the overall manufacturing cost.

1.3 No "f/2.8" AF Module:

Without putting a "f/2.8" AF module which detects light (paths) coming from the peripheral of the larger aperture lenses, the spherical aberrations of fast lenses cannot be really measured (but just assumed) and thus the AF accuracy suffers. Sometimes I just wonder, even entry level Canon DSLRs (since the 450D) have had this for long, so as to improve AF reliability for faster lenses with larger apertures, why Pentax has still been unable to put such a really standard design and solution so as to tackle the problem in a more effective way?

1.4 Yellow Light Symptom:

I found that the symptom has not been so obvious with the new Pentax DSLRs like the K-x and K-7 (provided that they are fairly "accurate" enough by themselves for a specific body and lens under a specific condition) but the problem is actually not totally eliminated. To check, just project a white light on an object, fix the camera, do the AF, change the light source to yellow (a 2700K to 3000K one), then re-do the AF, read the focus scale on lens, then you can see the camera should usually focus a bit fronter and then Front Focusing is resulted if you inspect the photos! :-o

2. Inferior Quality Control:-

Without doubt, from my own experiences of possessing 7 Pentax DSLRs over years myself (2 *ist Ds, 2 *ist DSes, a K100D, 2 K-xes - not even count for many other Pentax DSLR bodies and models that I have used and tested), I am totally and 200% "impressed" with the Quality Variations of individual Pentax DSLR bodies (and lenses as well) at the Pentax factories. With different units of bodies and lenses and then combinations, the focusing errors and behaviours could vary in large extents and unpredictable ways. So, the interim solution for we poor Pentaxians is just the Debug Mode, especially for those entry level or older model users. But then this is only a partial and incomplete solution, as different lenses could have different errors again and AF accuracy is also affected by the distance of the objects, even your Pentax DSLR(s) has/have been debug mode adjusted! :-(

Still, below are those Debug Mode tutorials and related posts that I have put in my Blog so far, hope this can be somehow useful for you to "cure" the problem, which I believe that for some users of "advanced" models like K-7 and K20D would still need it for some cases:-

http://ricehigh.blogspot.com/search?q=debug+mode

3. The Negative Attitude of Pentax (now Hoya)!

The Real Evil is indeed here. Just like the infamous SDM problem, what we Pentaxians could see that is Pentax never listens to the wide and loud complaints from the suffered Pentaxians public and has never tried some better efforts to resolve and eliminate the problems or just to be a bit more responsible (i.e., to act and react in a more positive way to their users/customers for the *real* issues)! Well, back to the AF problem, just say, how is it so difficult to make a smaller AF sensing area for more precise AF measurement and control, just like what their old Pentax MZ film AFSLRs in the 90s could do? How is it so difficult to include a "f/2.8" AF sensor (which just point to the outer part of the glass/optics of the lenses!)??

All these are just rather ridiculous after all! >:-{ At the end, the Pentaxians are hurt and it does no good to Pentax/Hoya, as I have been saying this for more than six years now - but still I do really feel sorry to see loyal Pentax users and supporters are still telling that they are suffering and being helpless/hopeless! >>:-((


So, after all these, the solution? Any?? My humble answer is that there is NONE, unless the Pentaxian switches, before Pentax/Hoya is really willing to do something and make the CHANGE! :-( (But Not Just Know how to Change the Colours of a Body!)


Read Also:-

Focus Calibrations for (Pentax) (D)SLR Bodies and Lenses

How AF Errors Can Decrease *Effective* Resolution?

Overclocking Your Pentax (AA Battery) DSLR(s)!?

See this experiment done by a K200D guy for the physical and performance differences found and measured when using different battery types:-

http://www.dchome.net/viewthread.php?tid=883911
(in Traditional Chinese, Google translated English page here)

So, his comparisons and results are tabulated:-

Battery Type:	NiMH (Sanyo 2500 mAh)	AA Lithium (Energizer)	NiZn (PowerGenix)
Total Weight (4 x AAs):	115g	98g (85%)	58g (50%)
AF Motor Speed (from 00 to nearest w/ DA 16-45)	0.316s	0.254 (80%)	0.211s (67%)
Voltage (Per Cell):	1.38V (-8% Lower than the Designed 1.50V Nominal Voltage)	1.72V (+15% Higher)	1.78V (+19% Higher)

So, it is clear that the NiZn wins all, it is lighter and yet more powerful. But this may also be too powerful for the Pentax AA DSLRs to tolerate, as the voltage might be too high and more importantly, the internal resistance of the NiZn is just too low, this may put some electronics and components inside our cameras at risk, in particular the built-in flash, I bet - Read my this previous article for more details:-

Better K-x Rechargable Solution? Is the NiZn Safe?

Anyway, if you hate much the NiMH battery performance and reliability in your Pentax AA battery DSLR(s) (I DO), and if you might want to overclock your DSLR(s) for better performance, you may give the NiZn a trial. But remember, do this at your own risk and you might get your camera burnt and damaged in the end!

P.S. Recently when I did some prolonged movie recording (which was just for a few minutes continuously for each clip and then clip after clip, air-conditioned indoor) with my K-x with fully-charged NiMHs in it, it quitted and left the "LiveView" mode a few times prematurely without any warning. The battery indicator changed from green to yellow (half-depleted) and then to red (fully depleted) and back to green after enough rest! This is really annoying as I found that when I did the same with the Canon 550D, even under a hot sun and high temperature outdoor, and for even longer recording time, no problem ever happened! That AA battery rechargeable "solution" used by Pentax in any Pentax AA DSLR does really SUCK, I have to say! >:-( It's just now an unique Pentax problem anyway, for the current lines and models of DSLRs that are in the market.


Read Also:-

AA Battery Chargers Fully Compared (4 Models)

Lens Shootout: DA* 16-50/2.8 Vs Sigma 18-50/2.8 EX Vs Tamron SP 17-50/2.8

http://www.pentax-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=25

(in Slovenia, Google Translated English Page Here)

I think the review article is self-explanatory and the posted pictures speak themselves. Just go measurbate and compare! Good luck!

K-x NiMH Battery Experience: 8 Models

Just see this new post at the DPR and I think it is worth reading for what it has been tested and shared:-

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1036&thread=33562896

To my surprise, the GP Recyko+ doesn't work in his K-x and he tested two brand new sets of 4!

But in fact, as I pointed out when the K-x was first announced, NiMH is actually not a suitable solution for a super high drain electronic device like the K-x especially for its LiveView and Video functions. Now, the above K-x user has found exactly the same for what he tells.

Btw, I think I have even more NiMH models in my home than that new K-x user "thank" to Pentax! For what I have used and tested over these six years, I recommend Camelion AlwaysReady. If you have faced the same battery issue with your Pentax AA-battery DSLR especially the new K-x, try the AlwaysReady if you can get it. However and of course, still don't expect Lithium rechargeables' reliability and longevity even with the AlwaysReady. Although it is just better (or even the best amongst all different NiMH models by different manufacturers I have, including the Eneloop), it will STILL do NO Magic as it is Just and Still NiMH after all!

Maybe you can try the latest NiZn AA rechargeables, if you can find it, which requires new matching charger for the new battery type. For more details, read this:-

http://ricehigh.blogspot.com/2009/10/six-years-of-aa-battery-pentax-dslrs.html#IDComment38620548

But then self-discharging of this new-type NiZn is yet again an annoying issue - the old classic problem of those conventional NiMH and NiCd rechargeables.

Last but not least, you can read also the latest battery issue reports by K-x users at Ned Bunnell:-

http://nedbunnell.blogspot.com/2009/10/k-x-battery-notes.html

Note the first two comments..

Six Years of AA Battery Pentax DSLRs

After six years of AA battery driven Pentax DSLRs, since the *ist D, I have plenty of NiMH batteries and chargers in my home! They are of different makes and models, to name a few, those includes Mitshibishi, Panasonic, Sony, Sanyo, GP, Super and so on.. And, I just wonder how much money and time I had been wasted in sourcing a better AA rechargeable solution.

I own four models amongst those AA Pentax DSLRs, namely, the *ist D, *ist DS, K100D and now the K-m. Out of my original expectation, my 7th Pentax SLR body is not the K-7, but the K-m, despite that I was one of the first people who pre-ordered! :-(

Now, thanks to Pentax and their infamous battery issue, my house is still full of those Ni-MH batteries so that I can save the Earth and protect the environment so much! ;-) Anyway, these batteries are useful to me as I have so many remote controls in my home (dozens of - I'm a gadgetaholic, I admit) and also there are just too many other small devices and toys that need AA batteries..

What I want to mention in this blog entry is about the best and the worst Ni-MH batteries and models I ever bought and own. Maybe I mention about the best chargers first, they are those made by Panasonic, highly recommended. Another tips of mine for selecting chargers is that do NOT buy "quick" chargers that charge too fast (say, 15 minutes or something). Those chargers do NO GOOD to the batteries, nor the charging quality is really good. Cooling fan actually doesn't help much. The cooling fan can blow away the heat *outside* the batteries. But how can they get the heat *inside* the batteries Away?

Well, the worst battery I have ever owned is the Sanyo 2500 mAh NiMH (early model, which Sanyo advertised heavily everywhere and claimed to be the highest capacity NiMH created and made ever!), which IMHO is just a Piece Of Junk. In fact, this battery has been "crowned" as "King of Self-Discharge" by photohobbists locally in my city, which it will discharge to nothing usable just after one to two days it has no power at all after that. Really POJ or maybe even just a POS! Indeed, this name of "King of Self-Discharge" is really so exact and is best describing this ever crappy Sanyo rechargeable model, which was with only 100% hype, and solely.

What is the best battery then? Eneloop? Nope.. It is usable but not the best battery I own. Lately, I have found and bought four new Camelion AlwaysReady new-type LSD (Low Self-Discharge) NiMHs and I do find a difference.

When used in my K-m, the AlwaysReady show clearly that it is just superior to the Eneloop. It is more powerful and my K-m is now ever strongest (the motor torque is different, as that can be heard obviously). As what Camelion claims, the AlwaysReady recovers much faster after high drain, or even "short circuit", whereas the Eneloop does recover slower according to my own experiences. With freshly charged batteries, after high drain (say, put the K-m into the Continuous Hi frame mode for five shots), the Eneloop will show "half-depleted" momentarily but the AlwaysReady is still able to maintain its power level, with a green battery symbol. If the batteries are already shown as "half-depleted", further draining the Eneloops will make my K-m shut-down. In contrast, with AlwaysReady, it can still sustain the power until it cuts off very transitionally, but not suddenly (unlike the Eneloop). Even when the battery symbol has just become red (empty), the AlwaysReady can still do a few more shots before the batteries "die", which has never been possible with the Eneloop.

So, the Camelion AlwaysReady is what I highly recommend for all Pentax users with our AA battery driven DSLRs. Finally, there is a better solution to the problem, although it is not offered by Pentax! Combined with Pana's chargers (not too "quick" but reasonable in charging time, say, two hours something), the best result can be obtained. I do not recommend Camelion or those common GP chargers that are widely available though, as I have recently read cases of explosion of both on local press and in another local photo forum. Panasonic is the brand that I mostly trust, with best performance, reliability and safety (although their offers are usually not that cheap).

No Focus Point Indication in Finder for the K-x?

The K-x has a 11-point SAFOX VIII, but it has no focus point indication of any kind in the viewfinder, neither the overlaid red illumination on focusing screen nor any indication/information to be displayed in the status/info area at the bottom of the finder. Just read this latest hands-on report and follow on the discussions along the thread:-

http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-news-rumors/73789-hands-pentax-event-last-night.html

The design is that the focus point must be selected with the display and indication on the back LCD but there still will be no indication of any kind on which focus point(s) that the camera selects nor the user can have any idea about it *during* shooting, when he/she has been looking at/through the finder.

Well, whilst I don't think this indication is very important for bodies like the *ist DL or the K-m, of which all focus points are more or less close to the centre of the frame (3 points and 5 points respectively), this time I think it is not much acceptable for a wide 11-point AF covered area to have no indication at all in the finder, which will surely create much inconvenience and problems.

In fact, DPR criticised much in their K-m review about the lack of focus point indication (which I didn't agree that it was a major problem, mainly because of that all the five points are close to the frame centre), but now the problem has been even made to be more serious by Pentax and could be a *real* issue this time. From the commercial point of view, why Pentax could not respect the DPR by considering their point of concern as raised and re-include the focus illumination, just like what is available in the K100D and the *ist D/DS? How much cost they can save in eliminating this facility? Not much, I'm afraid. But one thing is for sure, DPR will give adverse comment again in their upcoming K-x review, if any, possibly in an even more strong tone for the problem and more marks will be deducted in their review. So, why Pentax/Hoya didn't listen?

Even they didn't, won't and don't listen, I think they should think at least themselves if such a handicapped design is practically usable for the users, or not.

K-m Battery Issue, Solution and Timing Measurbations

As for years, the AA battery issue of the Pentax DSLRs have not yet been completely resolved by Pentax, never (and forever - my bet).

There is no exception for the K-m, which now even only allows solely the use of AA type batteries and CR-V3 type cannot be inserted for what the battery compartment is designed, mechanically, since the K200D. Here is a shot about how the battery compartment is designed and made (note the protruding part inside):-



The problems of using AA NiMHs are heavy (about 110g for 4), short battery life, unstable battery power and lower camera performance.

I use Sanyo Eneloop and the battery half-depleted warning often appear after heavier power demand when using the camera. I really don't like it, or just hate it. And, four AA NiMHs which are roughly equal 110g, which are no good to carry around everywhere. For just the weight of such low performance batteries, I think it is not worth, in any sense.

But then here comes the Energizer Lithium AAs, which are bundled with the camera and is highly recommended by Pentax. Yes, they are light-weight and of high performance. But the main problem is that they are NOT Rechargeables! Cost is a concern here and more a problem for its non-environmental friendliness! Hey, men, please save the Earth!

So, can we all Pentax AA DSLR users can get the best of both worlds? I am afraid that the answer is No and Not, especially with the current line of Pentax AA battery DSLRs which do not even allow the use of CR-V3 so that even those *Regulated* CR-V3 cannot be inserted and used in any K-m and K200D.

Since I have two Regulated Rechargeable CR-V3 and a dedicated charger left from my old K100D (which can use the CR-V3 batteries), I have been thinking about to hack the batteries so that I could use the high performance Lithium-ion battery in my K-m again. But since Pentax have prohibited the use of even disposable CR-V3s for my K-m, I have been careful to think about it more and measured the battery voltage (again) for different battery types:-

- Eneloop: Maximum no-load freshly charged voltage for two: 2.5~2.6V;
- CR-V3: Maximum no-load voltage per each new battery: 3.3~3.4V;
- Energizer AA Lithium: Maximum no-load voltage for two: 3.1~3.2V;
- My Regulated RCR-V3 when freshly charged, no-load: 3.4V

Since it is just too difficult and actually non-sense to hack the K-m's battery compartment, I simply dissembled my CR-V3 and remove the part that has conflicts with the "prohibiter" of the battery compartment and re-wrapped the battery and sealed all the electrical parts with Denka Vini-Tape:-



Well, do note the above that the battery has PCB and circuitry and components inside in order to regulate the voltage down to 3.4V which is lower than the nominal voltage of 3.7 to 4.0V of the rechargeable Lithium-ion cells that are used.

But since two RCR-V3s now make up 6.8V and even disposable CR-V3s which can also have that maximum total voltage (of 6.8V also) are not "designed" to be used in the K-m, I have not been dare to insert two RCR-V3s in my K-m at the same time, as the overall voltage would be too high for the camera (The highest safe voltage limit would be 6.4V, i.e., the voltage of two new AA Lithiums). I opted not to take the risk to "overclock" my camera by that 0.4V, which maybe outside the design tolerance.

So, must I use the low voltage and low performance NiMHs in my K-m if I want rechargeables? In fact, my K-m will get the battery half-depleted warning shown for a set of four newly charged Eneloops after 100 shots and especially after high current/power is required/demanded, e.g., more AF, more LCD displaying, continuous shooting (this mode is really power hungry! Try it yourself!).

To get the best of both worlds and still make it safe enough, I mix one hacked RCR-V3 of mine and two Eneloops, so as to make up a "new" voltage of 6.0V, which is actually the idealistic value for battery voltage for all Pentax AA DSLRs! Mixing these two types batteries will not harm as:-

1. The batteries are in series but not in parallel;
2. The lower performance batteries are also rechargeables so there is no risk in being charging them up by another more powerful power source;
3. The higher internal resistance of any battery cell will limit the maximum current through the whole electrical circuit (but possibly the camera itself should be the bottle neck).

After all these hacking and voltage measurements, I still have to test the differences in performance for using different battery types and combinations, namely, I have measurebated the AF motor speed and the camera system/shutter time lag, here are the results:-

Batteries and Combination	Made-up total battery voltage (no-load)	AF Speed (See Remark 1)	Shutter Lag (See Remark 2)
4 Eneloops	5.2V	1.195s (Download sound file)	121ms (Download sound file)
2 Eneloops + 1 RCR-V3	6.0V	1.105s (Download sound file)	116ms (Download sound file)
1 RCR-V3 + 2 AA Lithiums	6.6V	1.082s (Download sound file)	112ms (Download sound file)
4 AA Lithiums	6.4V	1.088s (Download sound file)	113ms (Download sound file)

Remarks:
1. The FA 43 Limited was mounted, first driven to infinity before the test, then pointed the camera to a bright sky without any pattern and let the motor ran from 00 to the nearest distance and back to 00 and the timing was measured;

2. Measured from the completion of shutter release button pressing to the time of exposure.

3. The above test was carried out in an air-conditioned room at around 24 deg. C.

Do note that the above test is carried out for freshly charged batteries and new AA lithiums from newly opened pack. The difference in performance will become more obviously shortly when the performance (actually on-load voltage) of the AA NiMHs (Eneloops - the best and most "suitable" model, already) drops very quickly after 100 shots or so and in heavier current/power demand situations.

In the meantime, I shall choose the 1 RCR-V3 + 2 Eneloop mixed rechargeable solution. Now, I have turned on the back (status) LCD of my K-m on all the time (via a Custom Function, which is actually the default setting, but power consuming) and need not to worry about battery power drainage any more.

Also, as you can see, the performance of the camera, when using the mixed rechargeable solution, is actually close to that of using solely new AA Lithiums, which is yet a good thing. It can also be noted that further increasing the battery voltage has only minimal benefit for the camera performances, for both AF speed and system/shutter time lag. So, the bottle neck and threshold is really the NiMH battery and most benefits can be obtained/seen when changed to AA Lithium (and now by only one Regulated Rechargeable CR-V3) - project completed, hacking completed! ;=D (Victory!)

p.s. IF I was the Engineer of Pentax, I would choose to use an proprietary Lithium-ion/Lithium Ploymer rechargeable solution in ALL the DSLRs - problem totally resolved and the end of the story and all problems!